A Traveler From Missouri Sees Hornsby Bend in 1840

Letter 1

Near Austin City June 16th 1840

Mr. Chas. H. Grover

Louisville, Ky

 

Dear Brother,

Although it is with some degree of pleasure yet I cannot say that it is with so great a one as I could wish in taking my pen in hand- at the present time-to inform you of our present circumstances & future prospects. I have purposely postponed writing you & did not expect to have written until the “Glorious Fourth”- on which day I intended to have celebrated in a manner as suitable as our primitive state would permit & also of writing several long letters.  Some might say that "No servant can serve two masters:  for either he will hate the one, and love the other; or else he will hole to the one, and love the other. This passage may apply to Masters & Servants, but I think it is not applicable to two governments as that of our mother country & the Republic-which tries as far as possible to imitate it,--however we have given this Republic the precedence in regard to patriotic feelings, as we have attended the celebration of the battle of San Jacinto in the Capitol at Austin. As there is at present a gentleman in the house who is on his return to Hamilton, O. I cannot let the opportunity pass without saying something.

 

First, the most essential point, is that the greatest of all blessings, health, which I am proud to state, that we are “all” enjoying to our own satisfaction-I sincerely hope that yourself & family are blessed [sic] with the same happiness.  You would like to know something of our present circumstances  picture to yourself a tract of land somewhat resembling this shape-[drawing of horsehoe]  —on the one side the Colorado, a river that if it had been discovered by the French would have undoubtedly named "LaBelle Riviere"--it is truly a beautiful river.  I neither have time nor space at present to give as some--but will state a little.  The lower line of the tract commences on a blue soapstone bluff [ed. note. Blue Bluff at Hornsby Bend] of about 100 feet above the bend of the river--this tone is of superior quality for pottery ware as a Potter has sent some of it to the states where it was manufactured.- The bank reaches nearly a mile on the river when it slopes off  to a bottom which ordinarily does not overflow.  The bluff is lightly timbered with oak, pecan, & prairie grass.  The bottom is heavily timbered with cottonwood, elm, mulberry, hackberrry, & the heaviest kind of wild rye which grows about knee high & very rank.  This kind of bottom extends some distance up the river, but on this tract of land reaches a little over a half a mile--which makes the tract 1 1/2 miles in width-the bank on this side is rather bluff-on opposite side it is a little lower in the opposite curve of the river a sand bar juts out which so contracts the river at the upper line, that it makes a ripple of falls-the like of which the river abounds with-here is our bathing place & it is truly a luxury to enjoy a good swim. As for fishing, I can't skip that.  I have made some of the prettiest hauls that have been made about here;  although the largest fish hasn't weighed over 15 lbs. & soft shell turtles 12 lbs. yet they delicious quality of the kind.  It is far superior to your mud cats,-the river abounds in most all kinds-too numerous to mention. Our house is situated about 3/4 of a mile from the river & about 100 feet above its bed.- We have made the house in a Cedar hollow several springs of first rate water-have at present several head of cattle & about 12 acres of corn which looks delightful & some of which is “ripe”-had roasting ears sometime ago-have made our own Rye which we grind in a corn mill by hand & makes although not the whitest, yet bread that we are glad to get.  Have also water, musk & honey melons nearly ready for the table, asparagus, sage, lettuce, turnips, onions, beets, carrots-some of which we have used, but our garden seeds did not do as well as expected as we planted too late-a late fall garden does better than a late summer one, near the house are several vines loaded with grapes which will be ripe in about a month-have also the Spanish persimmon-Blue Texas Plum & Turkey Plum-the latter grows on bushes like the Gooseberry but more in clusters-red when ripe & very pleasant-For about half a mile farther back from the house the land is timbered with Live-Post & Blackjack oaks- Hickory-Pecan & Cedar-we have now reached the outskirts of the timber which lines the Colorado for about the same distance on both sides of the banks & connects the great Prairie which rolls into waving plains as far back as the eye can reach. Now & then you can see a timber of the larger class studded around with the muskete [sic]-a low thorny tree some of which grow with the trunk very large resembling the cherry. A half hours ride will take me to some of the knolls or rising ground of the prairie where I can see for the distance of 5 miles around me-& view the winding of the creeks serpentine course have a narrow lining of timber on either side. The scenery is beautiful & sometimes presents to the eye a density of landscape that is truly pleasing- on the Colorado above this the mountains covered with Pine near their high peaks & look sublime. I cannot write as I wish to, but to give you a better idea, I will “Copy” a little, & thus speaks President Lamar “Truly gentlemen, we have, all of us a reason to be proud of our country. It’s beauty is unrivalled & her wealth unbounded. The richest gifts of providence are here-all that nature can bestow, or the heart should desire-a climate delightful & invigorating-water as pure as the springs that sparkle from the Rocky Mountains- a soil prolific & diversified, adapted to the full maturity of every production of the temperate zone and what is better still, a vigorous and an enlightened population; a hardy race of enterprising men who appreciate the blessings they enjoy, & stand prepared to maintain and protect them. The ignorant, bigoted and vicious may revile & insult her, but, we who are fanned by her genial airs; who revel in the luxury of her wavy fields & clear blue skies are happy in the beauty that surrounds us and the plenty that prevails. We sigh for no richer nor brighter land. And if we did, where shall a lovelier be found? We read of the Vale of Valembrogin & we are told in song, of the banks of the Blue Moselle, but he who shall wind his way to our fair and favored region, will find himself embowered in a boundless see & - a universal Elysium, where every hill is a flower crowned Ida, & every plain is the valley of Tempe. You who have stood upon the summits of San Saba will testify to the fidelity of this. The stranger abroad who believes it not, if he will come into our country & go with me to the mountains of Sierra Madonna, I will show him a scene that bids defiance to the genius of poetry-a landscape beyond the brilliancy of Titian’s pencil-where flowers of every figure & complexion spreads their gay beauties to the sun & shed odor on the breezes- where birds of the brightest plumage pour their melody to the cadence of the laughing waters-where the doe & the deer are lightly boarding together-where the bison, the buffaloe [sic] darken the distant horison [sic] with their numbers, whilst the fiery mustangs toss their long mains to the wind & shake the very hills with their wild & furious stampede. And how can he gaze upon these things & find in his heart to abuse the land that God hath so beautifully blessed? If he be of that frigid & malignant class who have rejoiced in the calamities of our country-who have sought by the foul breath of calumny to blight a budding nations hopes of liberty & mildew the laurels of its brave defenders, I would turn from him with abhorrence & contempt & say to him, depart, thou scum of honor & the shame of chivalry. But if he have a soul of sensibility & a spark of ferver [sic]-a taste for beauty & a love for freedom, I know that he will not only delight to serve with the country whose glory is scattered in the morning stars, but he will raise his head & pour out the fountains of his heart to the greatest of benevolence for spreading before him such soul searching scenes & inducing. him with ability to appreciate the blessings and enjoy them with gratitude."  = Thus truly speaks the worthy general.

I have not yet taken a hunting trip as most of the game in the approach of summer takes an annual trip farther north of this & return in the fall of the year.  We have a lease for the place we now occupy for another year  although our house is of logs thrown up which makes two comfortable rooms & a passage between, yet we furnish it in a manner which resembles simplicity to our neighbors, as some of your plainly furnished houses to some of the aristocracy-a few of which I believe your city abounds with-but we are no aristocrats.-You cannot hardly imagine how some here-who although possessing an over abundance of land-have so. little household utensils-using one dish for a variety of purposes.

 

As to the future prospects, I cannot for a certainty state- our articles sunk on the Danube are from last accounts in N. Orleans but expect them over by some of the first vessels. Father has travelled in all between 2 and 3,000 miles endeavoring to buy a place to suit him, but has not yet succeeded. I myself am going this week about 50 mile below here on the opposite side of the river to see a Mr. Wood, son of Dr. Wood from Louisville, he has made several trips to near the Rio Grande purchasing mules-& with whom I expect to accompany to near the Rio Grande for the purpose of locating our lands which will be about “1600” acres besides that purchaced [sic] by fathers cash, which was nearly 1500 acres more; the country in that section is healthy in point of climate & the soil good as it generally is in all Texas. If I go & return safe and sound-will write you to that effect. I think I have written enough-but before closing I cannot stop the flow of ink in giving to this land of promise-of milk and honey-the actual state of affairs-of men & manner. There are some ” styled “Old Settlers”, who have leagues of land & are of avaricious disposition- who hold their land as it were their God. They are mostly from the southern states; & have not that energy of character peculiar to the sons of the North-They behold new comers as two pedlars [sic]-a Yankee & a Jew look upon each other & at present remind me of a piece which you have probably read in the Thrifty Almanac entitled

  [ [Undecipherable} They seem to have a consciousness that a more enterprising race will get the ascendency [sic] & look upon the new comers as their downfall & try to put in their way every drawback in their power.- However we get along with these folks very well, but cannot help remarking their ways.  The last year there was not enough raised to meet the demand, mostly on account of the invasion of Santa Anna in 36 who destroyed most of the farms and plantations, which have since had to be put in order-but this year there is every expectation of plenty.

 

You have probably the news of the times about here, of Indians occasionally taking a scalp & levying contributions by way of stealing horses-we have as yet been pretty fortunate in these particulars.

Two days since Father returned from a trip to the lower country and brought a few papers which you have pleased to send after which receiv our most hearty thanks--I have not yet had time to peruse the, but I see an account of a destructive fire that your city has been visited with--I have not yet read the particulars--although we cannot sometimes stop such disaster--yet I hope that in a short time--you may behold buildings reared up in the place of the ones burnt [sic] that will vie with any city in the universe.

The whole family sends not only their best respects but also their well wishes for your prosperity.  Write & let us know of pecuniary mattters & business generally--I hope that we may be so prospered that I can pay you a visit in "45."  Time alone can tell:--

 

Yours affectionately

Geo. W. Grover

I have left room on the preceeding pages expecting that on tomorrow to take a trip with Mr. Cranson, the bearer of this to you--and father--to the "cave" about 10 miles distant from here.

GWG

 

When you write direct to "Austin City" you will have to pay postage to New Orleans unless you send it there by individual.

G .W .G.

Letter 2

June 17th 1840

 

I have just returned, after being absent all day on horseback--from an excursion above Austin, more on account of endeavoring to find something to write about, than any other pleasure for myself.  Now having a little time to write, I will give you as near as I can a slight description.  Mr. Cranson, the bearer of this & myself left our house for Austin 8 miles distant.  For nearly 4 miles it was over hilly ground--w miles from the house winds Walnut Creek, named from the large quantity of walnuts which line its bank, whose waters are as clear as any you ever saw.  The balance of the road was over a bottom prairie of the richest soil for cotton or corn.  Within two miles of Austin, can be see the president House which is on a high & delightful situation.  I numbered 8 or 9 farms on the route--having about 15 acres under ditch.  as you have not had the pleasure of seeing this description of fencing, I will state how they are made.  A line is run, laying off the field-on the outside of which for the width of about 4 feet a ditch is made throwing the earth on the inside, forming an elevation of earth of about 3 ft., the ditch is about 2 or 3 ft. deep.  I cannot now give you a description of Austin--while there I judged there were about 100 houses--are several stores--2 printing offices & besides the public building mostly of which are neat log houses, built like our dwelling--the president's house is a frame of two stories--the House of Representatives is of one story & very large--the latter is fortified with in a picketed fort, another which we strayed & had the pleasure of seeing the "twin sisters," two cannon from "Cincinnati.  These canon will be looked upon some day with the warmest feelings that ever entered the hearts of a brave people--They were the only canon in & are said to have gained the day in the battle of San Jacinto.  I saw large piles of muskets, balls, bombshells, * besides a few pieces of artillery.  There has been a subscription in Austin "as a premium" which will be given to a gentlemen if he will place in the Colorado River, a Steam Boat measuring at least 50 tons.  Whether it will be effected I cannot say.  

We concluded to cross the river & visit the "Cave" & forded the river over one of its "ripples" or falls & after half an hours ride came to a cornfield which resembled a young cane-break.  The cornstalks was about 15 feet high; coming to the house we told them that we had a curiosity to see the cave, & would like to be directed to it.  They said it was some distance to it & there was no one there that had been to it & told us that the Indians had been about there & it was not safe to go unless we were armed.  I told them that were not & asked them positively if the Indians had been seen. --he said that fresh Moccasin tracks had been seen & the creek was muddy where they had crossed.  The gentleman who was with me was for backing out-but I got him to to Mr. Barton's about a mile farther.  Here our curiosity was baffled, not Indians --but for want of a guide's candle.  However we was pleased with our visit for at this place I saw the greatest Springs that I ever saw in a creek close by the house, there gushes out from a rocky bank several streams of water which run into a kind of basin of various depths from the deepest about 20 feet in which flows the water as clear as a crystal.  They were a fishing here but shortly after our arrival one of the boys could not resist the temptation, so in he dove.  I followed his example & it was much "wana" as the Indians would say signifying "much good."  The land in that section is very rocky, more so than any I have yet seen here.

If you have read all that I have written you must be tired, for I am--and me thinks I hear you exclaim in the language of Burn "well done--Curry Sark" & so I will be off like you.

 

Yours,

 

G.W. Grover

 

There is nearly ready for operation a saw mill about 300 yards below the above springs--there is plenty of water to run the mill.

I have no time at present to write to Mr. Haskle.  Father wrote him by Mr. Brashear who has returned to new Orleans.  Say to him that "Melbourne" who lives across from Columbia--that on his "Fiftieth Birthday"--in the height of jollity, over a bucket of champagne--died.